Christmas and Champagne – the perfect pairing, says Janine Marsh as she treads the light fantastic along one of the world’s most famous and stylish streets to experience the Habits de Lumière light festival in Epernay.
For most of the year, Épernay’s Avenue du Champagne, one of the most famous thoroughfares in the world, is an elegant, and rather serene street. The long, wide avenue hosts some of the most famous Champagne names from Moët to Pol Roger, based in stately houses and maintaining an image of silky sophistication which we, the public get a glimpse of on polished tours of their cellars and tasting rooms.
But – once a year, for three days, the refined image goes out of the window as the capital of the champagne-making region goes all out festive for its famous winter festival – the Habits de Lumière. Don’t worry, there’s still plenty of Champagne tasting, but there’s also music, an extraordinary street light show, pop up Champagne and food stalls, fireworks and shows, a parade and cooking contests.
Habits de Lumière
Just over an hour from Paris by train, Épernay’s winter festival is easy to get to, and if you want to see the very best of the event, go on Friday or Saturday and stay overnight so you can enjoy the night-time spectacle.
Each day offers something different, on Saturday it’s gastronomy that’s highlighted with chefs and winegrowers pairing up to offer cooking demonstrations and tasting sessions. There are wine and food workshops and cellar tours. On Sunday a parade of vintage cars takes place.
As dusk falls on Friday and Saturday, the street starts to transform into a sea of colour, light projections and luminous art. Pop up Champagne bars start sprouting like truffles under an oak tree. Tables groan under the weight of bottles. The streets fill with people who promenade along the mile (1.5 km) long Avenue, stopping to sample a glass here and there, to admire the son et Lumière shows or dance at a pop-up disco.
What to see and do in Epernay
Beneath your feet in this refined city, are miles and miles of magnificent champagne cellars. They were first constructed hundreds of years ago to hold the precious fizz – making this one of the most prosperous streets in the world. It’s estimated a whopping 200 million bottles of Champagne are held underground here in around 60 miles (90 km) of cellars, billions of dollars worth, quietly ageing to perfection.
The first to dig out the chalky soil to keep his wine in, was Claude Moët, founder of the maison that still carries his name. He needed somewhere dark and cool with a steady temperature to keep the bottles of fermenting Champagne. Others followed his lead.
In 1807 Napoleon Bonaparte took a tour of Moët’s cellars, a fan of Champagne “…In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it” he once said. He left his tricorne hat behind, it’s still there. Legend has it that the tradition of sabrage, opening a Champagne bottle with a sword, is said to have been invented by Napoleon’s troops as a way to celebrate their victories.
If you want to find out more about the history of Champagne, pop in to the Champagne Wine and Regional Archaeology Museum which was the former home (Chateau Perrier) and reception rooms of Champagne maker Pierre Nicolas Perrier (now Maison Perrier-Jouët). Let’s just say those champagne makers of old made a lot of money and they certainly knew how to spend it. You’ll discover a fascinating exhibition about the history of Épernay and the region. To traverse this area 45 million years ago, you’d have needed a boat, it was covered by an ocean. You’ll also find out about champagne the drink from its history to how it’s made. I was astonished to find out that it takes around 120,000 grape pickers to bring in the Champagne harvest each year – plucking each grape carefully by hand!
Effervescent Épernay’s Luminous Winter Festival!
During the festival you can do tastings during the day at one of the many Champagne houses – it’s best to book in advance and some can only be visited by appointment.
Restaurants get booked up during the event, so book in advance if you can, or eat early to avoid the rush! La Cave de l’Avenue (Chambre d’hotes/restaurant) at one end of the Avenue de Champagne has an excellent wine list and a bistro-style menu.
Feast your eyes and look out over the town and surrounding Champagne vineyards – hop into a basket and soar 150m into the sky in a tethered balloon (ballon-epernay.com)!
If you’re a Champagne fan, the Habits de Lumière colourful celebration of the end of the year with its glitzy and glamorous tasting bars, fireworks and feel-good factor, will leave you feeling effervescent!
This is the place to be if you want to taste the stars – under the stars.
When: 12-14 December 2025
Details: habitsdelumiere.epernay.fr/en
Find out more about Épernay at: epernay-tourisme.com
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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